Here is a short, basic care sheet. For more in depth care information, visit Your First Rats and/or my Links.
 Housing If you get a baby rat, remember it will probably at least triple in size. Rats need space, much more than a hamster or gerbil. A full grown rat usually is 8 to 10 inches long (not counting the tail) and weighs from half a pound to nearly two pounds (males generally being a good bit bigger than females). The absolute minimum cage size should provide 2 square feet floor space or a 15 gallon (long) aquarium. One or two rats can live comfortably in this space. For more rats, you need to add one or two square feet space for each one. Rats make use of extra shelves and levels, so you can include them in your calculating. Make sure they have enough room to stretch out or to stand on their hind legs if they choose. Check out the cage calculator to find out how many rats a cage with certain dimensions can hold. Rats are adaptable animals and can be just as happy in a homemade cage, wire cage, or aquarium. Wire cages can be drafty, so if you use one, keep it away from drafts and provide your rats a nest box they can sleep in. Aquariums, on the other hand, trap heat and have poor ventilation. If you use an aquarium, keep it out of direct sunlight and hot areas and use a mesh lid that will allow ventillation. If you use a wire cage, the wire spacing should not be any wider than 1"x1" or 1/2" (horizontal bars are better for climbing). Do not use a cage with a mesh floor. Mesh floors may hurt feet but more significantly it causes ammonia buildup when rats can't walk on their litter and "stir" it. Mesh shelves are generally not a problem, but should only be used with coated wire that is 1/2" by 1/2" or smaller spacing (otherwise rats can break a leg). Try to avoid galvanized wire because it holds odor. It can also be toxic to some animals; there is no proof of this in rats, but it is something you might be concerned about. While some people choose to allow rats to roam around a small room or other area, I do not endorse this. To make sure your rat is safe, he needs a secure cage to stay in, at least when he cannot be supervised. Some suitable to excellent rat cages you can get are Martin's Cages, Fern Cages, Superpet "My First Home" Cages ( Accessories Rats like to have lots of things to investigate, chew on, climb on, etc. Cardboard boxes make great rat toys. Other good things to have are wooden chew toys (any made for small animals or birds), ladders, ropes, edible dog chews, ferret hammocks, etc. Remember to throw away any cardboard or wood when it becomes soiled or wet (could encourage mold to grow, and doesn't smell nice either...) and to wash any cloth or plastic toys when they are dirty. Rats NEED companionship. They almost always have "something missing" if kept alone. Rats kept alone are not as friendly to their owners and can act depressed, bored, or develop annoying (or dangerous) habits such as bar chewing, barbering, or even self mutilation. Bedding/Litter There are a lot of litters on the market. Avoid cedar and pine, because these litters can cause liver damage (leading to seizures or early death) and respiratory problems. Hardwood shavings like aspen and maple are fine, though. Don't use clay-based cat litter because it could make your rats sick if they eat it (and they will... They "sample" everything). Other beddings to look into are paper or wood-pulp beddings, corn cob litter, or simply shredded paper. Some litters need changed several times a week, others need changed only every other week. Pay attention to smell and moisture in the cage and clean regularly. If your rat is sneezing or you are having allergy problems, it could be the litter. Try different types to find one that you and your rats like best. Some good litter/bedding include Feeding Keep food available either constantly or every day. If you choose to feed your rats one or two meals a day, rather than just keeping the bowl filled, feed them in the evening when they are most active. Rats have diet needs that differ from hamster, gerbils, and other animals. Their diet needs to be something made specifically for rats or a mixture of things. By mixing dry dog food with hamster food and cereals, you can create a healthy rat diet. Avoid too much sugar and salt. Rats can develop health problems (just like people) on a poor diet. Pay attention to protein. Rats need a diet with 14% to 22% protein and around 5% to 7% fat, adult males needing the least and active youngsters needing the most. This means avoid cat food, kitten food, and puppy food. These are all very high in protein and fat. Many rats (especially males) will develop sores on their faces or backs (that can resemble symptoms of mites) from having too much protein in their diets. Also, watch out for preservatives in pet foods. Some are unhealthy and can cause cancer. Keep water available all the time. Use a water bottle (the kind with a ball bearing tip) not a bowl. Rats like to dump litter or pee in bowls of water. Change the water at least every other day, even if the bottle isn't empty. Clean the bottle occasionally to prevent mold and other things from growing. Some good staple foods (add occasional fresh veggies and grains) for rats include Mazuri Feeds, Harlan Teklad, Lab Diet, Suggested Shopping List Get all your supplies before you get your rat. That way, you will not be rushed, can find deals and good supplies, and your rat can start getting used to and enjoying his new home immediately. Here are the supplies I highly recommend:
Handling Do not lift rats by their tails. Pick them up by putting one hand under their stomach and one on their back. If a rat has sores on him, he might be sensitive and not want to be touched on the back. Whenever doing anything with your rats, act slowly and gently. Rats do not have good eyesight and can be frightened or hurt. Most rats enjoy being pet, especially on the face and neck. It mimicks the social grooming behavior, so expect to be groomed in return. Rats that are enjoying being pet or held will grind or chatter their teeth. It is called "bruxing" and is similar in its meaning to a cat's purr. Many rats will wrestle with you like a kitten. When he is particularly active, talk excitedly to him and chase him with your hand. Tap him on the nose and flip him over. If he's in the mood, he will lick or nibble you or hop up excitedly and pounce on your hand. Rats need at least an hour being held and pet and outside their cage every day (don't worry; they'll be fine for a weekend if you have to go somewhere). That is, provided they have a rat companion. A rat living alone will need a LOT of time with you, and even that usually doesn't meet their social needs. If you have to keep a rat alone, spend as much time as you can with him. Health A very good resource to have (and for your vet to have!) is Debbie Ducommun's Rat Health Care booklet. It has information on practically every rat health issue, including their symptoms and treatment, as well as practical advice like putting together a first aid kit and finding a good vet. It costs only $5 (+ S&H) and could save you many expensive vet visits. I'll discuss a few common rat health problems briefly. I'm not an expert, but I've had to deal with my share of health issues. I really recommend getting Debbie Ducommun's booklet... Also, please check out my rat health links for articles on many aspects of rat health care (from people with far more experience than I have). Minor cuts and scratches can be treated with peroxide and/or antibiotic cream/ointment. These will prevent infection and speed healing. For more severe injuries or if a wound is infected or abcessed, a visit to the vet is warranted. Sneezing should not be a red flag. Rats sneeze for all the reasons people do from a chill to allergies to an illness. Many rats will sneeze for the first week or so in their new home. It is probably a mix of excitement, stress, and getting acclimated. A sneeze should not cause concern unless the rat has other symptoms and/or he doesn't stop sneezing after a few days. If the sneeze doesn't go away, try to change the litter you use or the environment he is in (air fresheners and dust can cause some rats to sneeze). Red discharge from the eyes or nose is called poryphin. It isn't blood but rather a discharge of mucus (essentially runny nose and watery eyes). Rats often have poryphin discharge when they are stressed. They also get it from allergies to dusty bedding or if their cage is dirty. If a rat gets a scratch or speck on his eye, you will see a lot of poryphin. Poryphin is also a symptom of an upper respiratory infection, so make sure you visit a vet if you suspect something. (An infection can become pneumonia, which kills very often and very quickly--even with treatment.) Viruses and bacteria in rats do not have any vaccines, so to prevent your rat from getting sick from other rats, you need to quarantine all new ones you get (for 2 weeks minimum, 3 weeks recommended) and wash thoroughly if you've held other rats. Parasites are another problem that rats might get. They cannot get fleas from other animals, only lice or mites that are specific to rats. Rats can get these parasites in a pet store or expo/fair if that is where you get your rats. They can also be carried in on bedding, food, or toys that have been exposed or potentially exposed to other rodents. To prevent parasites, disinfect plastic accessories and freeze new bags of bedding overnight. If your rats do get parasites, you can treat them with ivermectin from your vet or use a mild parasite spray from a pet store (only use stuff made for small mammals or birds; cat/dog treatment is too strong). Your rat's behavior is a clear indication of his health. If he is unresponsive, not eating, and/or breathing heavily or rapidly (and doesn't look or act well), get to a vet as soon as you can! Pneumonia often has no other symptoms besides breathing heavily and acting lethargic, and treatment cannot be put off for a day. (If your vet's office is closed, do what you can to keep your rats warm and keep fluids in him.) Below is a picture of my rat health/grooming/emergency kit.  You can see some of the items in it clearly. Being prepared for an emergency can save lives and hassle. Here are some suggested items to keep in your own rat first aid kit (or make sure you have around the house; many are good to have for people, too):
Trips to the Vet? Most rats are healthy animals and will never need to see a vet, but accidents can happen, and your rats might get sick or need surgery. Pet owners need to be prepared for emergencies. Your "rat emergency fund" should be around a hundred dollars. When you get a rat or two, think about if you will be able to afford this much if there is an emergency. Surgery or a trip to an emergency vet usually will not cost more than this. Finances are only one consideration in your rat's vet needs. Here are some other tips for your rat to have a successful vet visit. Not all vets will see rats. Rats are considered "exotics" by vetrinary medicine, and even an exotics vet might not have much experience with them. Don't just expect your regular cat/dog vet will be able to take care of your rats. Ask. Rodent pets have some different needs than cats and dogs and should not simply be treated like little dogs or cats. Your vet will prescribe antibiotics for respiratory infections based on your rats' age and the suspected infection and other factors. Sometimes an antibiotic won't work on an infection or a rat will develop a tolerance. If a rat doesn't show improvement on a certain medication, contact your vet, and he will change to a new one that might work better. As a pet owner (or just a person that might get sick), you should know that respiratory distress can be caused by viruses or bacteria. A virus has to run its course and antibiotics cannot cure it. Antibiotics are used to kill bacteria. When a rat has a viral infection (one sadly common one is SDA), a vet will still give you antibiotics to treat secondary bacterial infections that take advantrage of the rat's weakened system.  If your rat needs surgery, there are some special considerations they need that differ from a cat or dog. Rats do not need food withheld before or after surgery. Because they can't vomit, it is less of a stress for them if you do not change their usual routine before surgery, and they will benefit from keeping their blood sugar up. Rats are more sensitive to anesthesia than cats and dogs, and it is safer for them to have gas rather than injectible anesthesia. A vet who is knowledgeable about small rodent pets should use gas, but don't hesitate to ask. A knowledgeable vet should also work to monitor and maintain a rat's body temperature during surgery, because it can fall dangerously low. Owners are usually wary about surgery because of the risks it poses to rats, but as long as your vet knows about rats' needs and the rat is generally healthy otherwise, the risks are fairly low. If you need to have your pet euthanized, you should know that a painless release requires a little extra effort for a rat than a cat or dog. Cats and dogs are euthanized by a painless injection into a vein. Rats' veins are too small, so a needle is usually inserted into the heart or stomach cavity. This can actually be very painful. A rat should be euthanized either with gas or have gas first and then an injection. Discuss this with your vet. Never be afraid to talk to your vet about your concerns and thoughts. A good vet will listen to you and be able to answer your questions and address your concerns. Caring for your rat when a vet is unavailable: If your rat becomes sick or injured before you can get to a vet (such as a weekend or after hours), you can take measures to keep him safe and as healthy as possible until the vet is available. Move your rat to a cage away from other rats, a ten gallon aquarium or box is good because it is free of hazards and keeps out drafts. Do not keep the rat on litter. Use cloth or plain paper towels instead. This will elliminate dust which can make it hard to breathe for a sick rat and will not irritate an injury like litter might. If your rat is in respiritory distress, put a hot water bottle in the cage or a heating pad (wrapped in a towel and set on low) under half of the cage. A towel should be placed over most of the lid to keep heat in, and you can use a hairdryer to warm the air. (Rats with respiratory infections need to be kept warm.) If your rat has an injury, you can rinse the wound with diluted peroxide and cover it with a bandage or gauze. (If the injury is on the face use plain water or saline NOT peroxide.) Make sure your rat is drinking. An injured or sick rat might not have the energy or drive to drink, and dehydration is dangerous. If he won't use a water bottle, try getting him to lick off your fingers, or an eye dropper or syringe. You can try using juice or fruits (like sedless grapes) instead of water; your rat just needs to stay hydrated. Do not hesitate in your decision to see a vet. Animals are stoic, and problems can get bad or fatal very quickly. For rats, this can be a matter of a day or two or even within hours of when you see symptoms. Recommended Reading 
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